December 25, 2012

Christmas 2012

Some pictures from our Christmas celebration in Papua New Guinea.

Santa in Mt Hagen

Christmas presents at Sutters in Mt Hagen

Christmas presents at Sutters in Mt Hagen

Christmas presents at Sutters in Mt Hagen

Joelle with sparkler

Niklas with sparkler

Joelle and Niklas in front of self-made Nativity scene in Rumginae

December 24, 2012

If it does not go according to plan

The call from Rumginae hospital came before my first flight in the morning. A boy has been bitten by a snake, probably a death adder, and was to be brought to a hospital as soon as possible. We got the plane ready as fast as we could. However, when I arrived in Haewenai the boy's breathing was already laboured. Haewenai is only 10 minutes North of Rumginae, but since surface repair work was still in progress I was not able to land there. So, I had to bring the boy to Kiunga.

As I stopped the plane in front of the MAF building in Kiunga I was relieved to see that Doctor Sharon from Rumginae was already waiting for us. The boy was loaded unto a stretcher and immediately received an anti-venom. His condition, however, was rather unstable and the drive over the dirt road to Rumginae rough, so it was decided to bring him to the hospital in Kiunga.

Doctor Sharon injecting the anti-venom


You might be wondering, why the boy was not admitted to Kiunga hospital in the first place, and why a doctor from Rumginae travels 45 minutes to treat a patient if there was a hospital nearby. The answer is unfortunately too common in PNG: Three out of six hospitals in the Western Province do not have doctors. Kiunga hospital is one of them.

A few days after the Medevac Doctor Sharon told me that the boy did not survive. She also told me that the snake bite actually happened on the day before the Medevac, meaning, the people of Haewenai waited a whole day before calling for help. They would have had ample time to bring the boy down to Rumginae in a canoe.
So, why did they not do this? Why did they wait until an airplane was needed and it had become too late anyway? There are no easy answers to those questions, since reasons are complex and mostly routed in PNG culture. An animistic worldview for example, still hinders a lot of people to seek professional medical help in a hospital. What can a doctor do if spirits and powers are the cause of an illness or a person has been bewitched? Only traditional rituals can help, people may think – if anything at all. Just this past week a woman decided not to be airlifted to the hospital with her very sick baby – and it probably has not survived this decision.

All these experiences clearly show, that change in the Papua New Guinean society cannot happen through aid work only. More significant is a change of the traditional worldview, including the religious. For this reason exactly, I am convinced that the M (mission) in MAF is still of great importance for the well-being of this country and its inhabitants.

November 24, 2012

Holiday Pictures 2012

Here they finally are: the pictures from our holiday with family from Switzerland. Beginning of September two of Madeleine's sisters and her mother came to visit us in Papua New Guinea.
It all started with them arriving a mandatory two days late. Luckily they had some good hosts in Port Moresby, them being able to stay with Sue and Rich Ebel. They then stayed for about a week in Rumginae, experiencing our daily life. They saw the work the hospital does and even had the opportunity to donate some blood. Unfortunately, we still had some cool weather and they missed out on the heat and humidity.
After that we all went to Madang on the east coast to do a week's relaxing, bathing, and snorkelling. Then we went on to Mondomil in the Highlands to get a taste of PNG's life in the cooler and more remote area of the mountains.

Boarding for Madang

The Bismarck Sea in Madang

Sand, sand, sand

Family-Kayaking

Independence Day celebrations

Ground transportation a la PNG

Mondomil: Holiday cottage Swiss style

Hiking in the Highlands

November 16, 2012

While we're not flying

The moon shone through the bedroom window as I woke from a restless sleep. It had just risen and hung about halve full above the treetops of the night jungle, its pale light rendering a ghostly atmosphere to everything around me. It was strangely quiet, the stillness broken only by the occasional cry of a night animal. Even the crickets had become silent. I realised that the diesel generator wasn’t running anymore and my heart fell – she must have died.

It all began, when Matt entered the MAF shed in Rumginae on Saturday morning. I had had some problems with the Internet connection and was checking some settings, when my fellow MAF pilot appeared wearing his MAF uniform. “Got a medevac?” I asked. He nodded and I learned that there was a woman in Bosset with birth related problems and bleeding, who needed to be taken to the hospital as soon as possible. Unfortunately, the village people of Bosset hadn’t bothered cutting the grass of their airstrip making it necessary for the woman to be brought to Aiambak by boat – 22km in a straight line, but more than double that on the ever winding Fly river. An interne doctor helped Matt ready the plane, my own offer having been turned down because I was officially on holidays. There was nothing I could do other than go home.

On the way to the hospital (by Matt Painter)

I heard the plane return in the early afternoon and guessed the woman was brought to the operation theatre immediately. A few hours later the emergency alarm was sounded, summoning extra hospital staff, as their help is needed in an urgent situation. I had the strange feeling that my non-involvement during the day would soon change.
And true enough, just as we had put our kids to bed and were about to start doing the dishes, our walky-talky squeaked and a voice inquired if we would be willing to donate blood. My wife immediately went up to the hospital and I followed after checking the conditions for donating blood for pilots. Being on holiday, I was good to go ahead.
There was a light drizzle as I walked from our house to the laboratory. It was dark already and the almost autumn-like atmosphere felt strange, like a dream. I could see the building holding the operation theatre ablaze with lights. There, doctors had diagnosed a placenta praevia and had performed a Caesarean to get the child out, but afterwards the woman’s bleeding didn’t stop. Now they had sent for an additional doctor from the hospital in Kiunga, a 45-minute drive away, in order to be able to make a full anaesthetisation and remove the uterus, which would hopefully stop the bleeding. Hymns drifted from the theatre and I realised that apart from the doctor’s skill and the voluntary donations of blood, God’s help was needed desperately.
There were a few people standing in front of the laboratory as I approached. But they turned out to be onlookers only, so I picked my way through them and entered the room. To my right my wife was already lying on a bed with a filthy looking mattress and cobweb covered legs. The assistant sitting at her side just told her – did I notice some pride in his voice – that he hadn’t taken blood for nearly eight years. “Very encouraging!” I thought and glanced at the rest of the room. Everything was covered with ancient laboratory apparatus, testing tubes, boxes, and other odds and ends. Strewn across a desk to my left were pieces of gauze, alcohol trenched swaps, and their torn wrappers. Here a nurse took blood samples to determine the haemoglobin level. A rat was scurrying over a beam in the roof.
I asked if they still needed my blood and after some discussion they figure it wouldn’t hurt. So after some back and forth, a bold nurse offered to take my blood sample, and, made nervous by my white skin, wasn’t able get a single drop out at the first try. No fumbling about with the needle still stuck under my skin yielded anything, so she had a second go and to my relief was more successful.
As I was waiting my turn, we talked about the difficulty of finding people willing to donate blood. Most villagers do not understand that the body will eventually replace the blood taken, but think they would loose part of their life in the process. Accordingly, they usually want some sort of monetary compensation or they refuse to donate blood. The staff do not like the explaining, the pleading, and the being turned down, whilst knowing that a person might be dying if they do not find enough donors quickly. For that reason, it is mainly hospital personnel who volunteer to give blood.
Then the person in front of me was done and I was told to lie down. As the blood slowly flowed into the bag I was anew struck by the technological difference between the West and this bush hospital. Everything was just functional; the laboratory assistant held and moved the bag with blood himself, the amount taken was determined with a spring balance. No fancy machine humming, buzzing, and beeping while doing all the above more efficiently and economically – and less relationally.

Letting blood a la PNG

The blood was soon taken and my wife and I walked back to our house to finish the dishes. We wouldn’t have to bother about light, because the diesel generator would be running all night, providing power for the operation theatre and whatever medical equipment was needed after the operation. Later that night, as I made myself ready for bed I realised that being a pilot is really only a part of my ministry – and that the other part is done while we’re not flying.

Now, as I lay awake in bed in the middle of the night, unable to get back to sleep, I felt immensely sad. What had gone wrong? For with the generator silent I felt sure things had not gone according to plan. Why did the effort and involvement of so many individuals not do the trick? I know that our work is in vain, but for the help of God. However, why did God not intervene? Tossing from side to side for a long time I couldn’t come up with an answer and over the pondering finally fell asleep again.
I did not feel like a man of faith when I entered the little hospital church the next morning. The interne doctor was already sitting on a bench, waiting for the Sunday service to start. We shook hands and “clicked”, I reluctant to hear the “news”, he a little too indifferent for my liking. He smiled and said: “They are both well.” It took a while to register what he meant, but when it did I felt ashamed. Well, God did honour our team effort after all. But I’m sure glad He does not depend on my faith and trust.